Lawmakers urge SEC to crack down on Chinese retail giant Shein over alleged forced labor (2024)

Two people hold two Shein bags after entering SHEIN's first physical store in Madrid, Spain, June 2, 2022.

Cezaro De Luca | Europa Press | Getty Images

WASHINGTON — Bipartisan lawmakers are urging the nation's top markets regulator to require Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein to disclose potential forced labor practices ahead of the company's possible initial public offering in the United States.

The fast-fashion company has come under fire for accusations of mistreatment of Uyghurs, a marginalized group in China, and for allegedly falsifying reports of forced or underpaid labor of its supplier factories, some of which are allegedly located in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China. Shein said it has no suppliers in the region.

The alleged practices violate the 2021 Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, Reps. Jennifer Wexton, D-Va., and John Rose, R-Tenn., wrote in a letter Monday to Securities and Exchange Commission Chairman Gary Gensler.

"As a global company, Shein takes visibility across our entire supply chain seriously. We are committed to respecting human rights and adhering to local laws and regulations in each market we operate in," a Shein spokesperson told CNBC. "Our suppliers must adhere to a strict code of conduct that is aligned to the International Labour Organization's core conventions. We have zero tolerance for forced labor."

An SEC spokesperson told CNBC that Gensler will respond to members of Congress directly.

The representatives are leading a bipartisan group, including 22 other lawmakers, in demanding the SEC require that Shein independently verify that it does not use forced labor before being allowed to issue securities in the U.S. The $64 billion company is preparing for a potential IPO later this year.

"While Shein claims its products do not utilize Uyghur forced labor and it works with third parties to audit its facilities, experts counter these types of audits are easily manipulated or falsified by state-sponsored pressure," the lawmakers wrote to Gensler. "Other experts argue that it is appropriate to presuppose that any product made in the XUAR is made with forced labor."

Goods manufactured in that area of China are not entitled to entry into the U.S. under the 2021 act.

The lawmakers also asked Gensler to notify national securities exchanges registered under Section 6 of the Securities Exchange Act of the requirement. Section 6 outlines the application process for registration as a national securities exchange.

Shein's business model relies heavily on advertising to Gen Z buyers on mobile apps, such as TikTok, and through social media influencers.

The company, whose de facto holding company is located in Singapore, hired its first federal lobbyists in 2022 with goals to expand its distribution into the U.S. market, according to Politico.

The lawmakers' letter echoes concerns from outside groups. Independent coalition Shut Down Shein has also called on the SEC to deny IPO registration to Shein unless it provides proof of compliance with the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act.

"Access to U.S. capital markets is a privilege, not a right, and should not be given freely to corporations who threaten U.S. national security with nefarious business practices, and who are making Americans complicit in their violation of U.S. law," Chapin Fay, executive director of Shut Down SHEIN, has written.

– CNBC's Gabrielle Fonrouge contributed to this article.

Clarification: This story was updated to note that Shein says it has no suppliers in the Xinjiang region.

Lawmakers urge SEC to crack down on Chinese retail giant Shein over alleged forced labor (1)

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Lawmakers urge SEC to crack down on Chinese retail giant Shein over alleged forced labor (2024)

FAQs

Is Shein accused of forced labor? ›

Investigators have accused Shein of forcing workers to work 16-hour days, withholding wages, and utilizing child labor, some of which the Singapore-based company has admitted to.

Why are they trying to ban Shein? ›

At the same time, Shein and Temu have been accused by American lawmakers of failing to ensure their supply chains comply with the Uighur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) passed last June to penalize Beijing's systematic rights abuses against the Muslim minority group in the western Xinjiang region.

What is the Shein controversy? ›

In October 2022, Chinese fast-fashion conglomerate Shein once again found itself facing allegations of unethical business practices, just another on their long laundry list of wrongdoings that include copying small businesses, allegations of modern slavery and violating labour laws.

Is Shein unethical in 2024? ›

Shein's unethical labor practices have long been a point of contention among critics and labor rights advocates. Reports and investigations have surfaced alleging poor working conditions, low wages, long hours and even exploitation of labor in its supply chain.

Does Shein still abuse their workers? ›

Workers in some factories supplying Shein are still working 75-hour weeks, according to an investigation by Public Eye, a Swiss human rights advocacy group that first highlighted the alleged abuse back in 2021.

How much do Shein workers get paid per hour? ›

SHEIN Salary FAQs

The average SHEIN salary ranges from approximately $40,544 per year (estimate) for a Sales Associate to $168,113 per year (estimate) for a Director. The average SHEIN hourly pay ranges from approximately $16 per hour (estimate) for a Store Associate to $45 per hour (estimate) for an Evaluar ropa.

Why do so many people not like Shein? ›

Shein has been criticized for its lack of transparency regarding its manufacturing processes. Without this information, it's difficult to determine if workers are being treated fairly or if sustainable practices are being used.

What countries banned Shein? ›

As it happens, a chunk of this growing market may now be won by Shein, whose app was banned in India from 2020 to 2023, before a new production and licensing deal was agreed between Shein and India-based retailer Reliance.

How unethical is Shein? ›

Why do people say Shein is unethical? People say Shein is unethical due to concerns about its environmental impact, labor practices, and alleged design theft. The brand's heavy use of harmful materials, rapid production, and lack of transparency raise ethical issues.

Why not to buy from Shein? ›

They use harmful materials. One of the reasons Shein can offer such cheap clothes, is because they use a lot of synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon. You can get rid of your fast fashion pieces after one season, but clothing made from polyester take 20 to 200 years to decompose.

Is it safe to wear Shein clothes? ›

For Diamond's study, commissioned by Marketplace, researchers tested 38 samples of children's and adult clothes and accessories. One in five had concerning levels of chemicals, like lead, PFAS, and phthalates. Unsurprisingly, one of the worst offenders was SHEIN.

Why are Shein clothes so cheap? ›

One of the key ways that Shein and other fast-fashion brands keep prices low is by outsourcing manufacturing labor to cheaper markets, said Dana Thomas, a Paris-based fashion journalist and author of “Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes.”

Who owns Shein? ›

Who owns Shein? Shein is owned by parent company Nanjing Lingtian Information Technology, although the company's ownership is frequently branded a mystery. It remains a private company, with four major shareholders so far: JAFCO Asia, IDG Capital, Sequoia Capital China, and Tiger Global Management.

Why are they boycotting Shein? ›

Concerns persist over Shein's sourcing practices, including the use of Xinjiang cotton, prohibited under the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, with calls for enhanced U.S. efforts against imports linked to forced labor.

Is Shein growing or declining? ›

SHEIN's apparel sales experienced double-digit growth in 2023, versus 2022, according to Circana's consumer tracking data.

Does Shein allow child Labour? ›

Suppliers who work with SHEIN must sign and agree to abide by our Supplier Code of Conduct, which is informed by the UDHR and the core conventions of the International Labour Organization (ILO), and strictly prohibits the use of forced labor and child labor.

Does Shein use ethical labor? ›

Shein's Supply Chain and Working Conditions

Shein claims to have a strict code of conduct that prohibits child labor and ensures fair working conditions. However, there have been instances where their suppliers were found to be violating these standards.

What is happening with Shein right now? ›

Shein has filed to go public, aiming for a $90 billion valuation. After the company publicly denied reports of a rumored IPO, it confidentially filed to go public on Monday, the Wall Street Journal reported. Sources said the offering could happen in 2024.

Does Shein support Palestine? ›

As the ongoing Israeli colonisation of Gaza continues to intensify, it appears that popular Chinese e-commerce platform Shein has taken some solid steps to show solidarity with Palestine.

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