Aug 26, 2022, 12:34 AM
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Woorolong | |
Woorolong Registered User | Thanks Maverick, I finally figured it out! |
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Sep 28, 2022, 05:38 PM
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Andy852 | |
Andy852 Fly Eat Sleep Repeat | |
Sep 30, 2022, 11:35 AM
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NCRealEstateGuy | |
NCRealEstateGuy I Used To Have More Free Time! | It's a sweet looking plane, even if it requires a build. Tempted. |
Oct 26, 2022, 09:17 PM
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jmb5240 | |
jmb5240 Registered User | Nice! |
Feb 15, 2023, 05:51 PM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | Quote: Originally Posted by maverick_me-109 So, continuing on with the installment of the landing gear. I purchased the electric main and nose retract landing gear from VQ for the Baron. Placing the LG module into the opening on the underside of the wing I found that the top side edge of the square opening interfered with the LG bolt plate. I used my dremel with a narrow sanding disc to very lightly sand the edge so it would not interfere. I secured the LG leg to the retract module, set up my DX8 receiver and transmitter, and temporarily holding the LG in place in the wing I actuated the transmitter LG switch. As the LG retracted into the wing the metal coil on the LG leg interfered with the wooden cut out in the wing and would not fully retract into the wing. Note here the wheel had just enough clearance. I used my dremel with a slightly wider sanding disc I had to sand quite a significant indentation into the wood in the wing so that the LG leg metal coil had the required clearance. see the pictures enclosed... However neither of the two main LG would retract completely. I began trying to see if adjusting the travel on my transmitter would help, it did not help. Looking at the retract module I could not find any means to adjust the gear so it would retract fully. I'm also building this model. It's a challenging build- well at least for me. I'm working to get the electric retractable gear installed. I'll post some photos when I'm a bit further along. I think the problem you're having with the travel on the gear is that you got the LG wire pushed too far into the LG, thus causing the coil spring to interfere with the LG mounting plate (at least it looked that way in one of your photos). There are two grub screws, one on each side of the gear. Loosen those and pull the wire out which essentially increases the length of the gear. Then re-tighten the grub screws. The problem I'm having is that the LG retract too far into the wing, which would make the wheel skirts interfere with the wing. |
Apr 29, 2023, 10:14 PM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | Here are the first few photos of my Nexa Beechcraft Baron G58 ARF build (purchased from Motion RC). The first challenge I encountered was that the plywood of the nacelles were wider than the slots in the leading edge of the wings. I resorted to stacking up various thicknesses of my wife's emery boards to get just the right thickness to fit into the slots. Quite a bit of sanding later, and finding new combinations of emery board thicknesses, I finally got the nacelles to fit into the leading-edge wing slots. The next challenge was to get the "outriggers" to make contact with the wing's leading edge. The outriggers were just slightly shy of contacting the leading edge, so I added material to the outriggers. I then used a contour gauge on the wing's leading edge to transfer the actual contour of the wing to the added material. Quite a bit of grinding and sanding later, I got the outriggers to contact the leading edge just right. I was able to get the nacelles all the way pushed in. I used gap-filling CA to glue the nacelle outriggers to the wing and, per instructions, used thin CA to glue the nacelles to the wing. ImagesView all Images in thread
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Apr 29, 2023, 10:25 PM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | I used Hitec HS-5085MG digital Servos for the aileron and flap servos. These slightly smaller servos were more convenient to install because I didn't have to break away the excess material to accommodate full size servos. I had to grind away a bit of material on the flap servo trays to accommodate the mounting flanges of the servos. ImagesView all Images in thread
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Apr 29, 2023, 10:32 PM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | I opted for the electric retracts for the Beechcraft. They were out of stock initially, but the moment they became available, I snapped up a set. |
Apr 29, 2023, 10:43 PM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | When trial fitting the LG into the wings, the coil spring interfered with the wing sheeting and wood LG mounts. I used a Dremel with sanding drum and rotary file bit to carve out the necessary clearances. ImagesView all Images in thread
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Apr 29, 2023, 10:55 PM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | I glued the bottom shield using Formula 560 Canopy Glue. I also had to grind away material to accommodate the LG coil springs. It's important to make sure the bottom shield is pushed all the way against the edge of the sheeting to give maximum clearance for the gear. ImagesView all Images in thread
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Apr 30, 2023, 01:43 AM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | I drilled and tapped the wheel cover mounts for #2-56 button head hex screws and also drilled four clearance holes in each of the wheel covers. Because the LG are below the bottom surface of the wing when retracted, I needed to figure out the distance between wheel cover mounting flanges and the inside of the wheel covers. To do this, I put the LG in the retracted position and pushed the four screws through the clearance holes of the wheel covers and then threaded them into the drilled and tapped mounting flange holes. I tightened the machine screws until the wheel covers came into contact with the bottom shield. I made some spacers by cutting and sanding some balsa sticks so that they slip in between the wheel covers and the mounting flanges. I drilled four clearance holes in the balsa spacers for the machine screws to go through. Once I had tightened the screws / spacers, I added some split-lock washers and nuts to hold things in place. ImagesView all Images in thread
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Apr 30, 2023, 02:06 AM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | I chose Bad Ass BA2826-1030Kv motors for power. e-Calc predicts good performance from this motor using a 10-7, three-blade prop. I used AutoCAD to calculate the wing area which came out to be 680 square inches. ImagesView all Images in thread
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Apr 30, 2023, 02:24 AM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | I used two ZTW Mantis 85A ESCs with 5A SBECs and located them inside the nacelles. Because I had to lengthen the battery wires, I needed to add some capacitance to prevent excessive voltage spikes from damaging the ESCs. Here is an excellent thread on RC Groups about this: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ns-workarounds Here are the Castle Creations Capacitor Boards I used: https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle-...002-02/p218431 ImagesView all Images in thread
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Last edited by High_Altitude; May 02, 2023 at 03:27 AM.Reason: add photos, update wording | |
May 01, 2023, 09:14 PM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | Since I had one ESC for each motor, I used a "Bus-Tie" circuit so that if I lost power from one ESC, it would switch to the other one. Here is an excellent thread about it on RC Groups: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...chottky-Diodes ImagesView all Images in thread
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May 01, 2023, 09:51 PM
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High_Altitude | |
High_Altitude Registered User | The top and bottom nacelle covers conformed perfectly to the contour of the wing. I used the screws provided in the kit. The fit on the cowls was very tight on my kit. I used black servo screws from Fastener Express to secure the cowls to the nacelles. I found some nice, 3-bladed spinners on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255351004864?var=555324953236 I bought the 2-inch version. ImagesView all Images in thread
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Last edited by High_Altitude; May 01, 2023 at 10:58 PM.Reason: Add spinner detail, and photo | |
